No wussy sun deck quaffer this—easily the most serious Pinot Gris I have ever met with in this land. A finely structured wine of precision and ultimately, of distinction. Superbly focused fruit is contoured and well defined by the time spent in wood (9 months I believe it was). It was also 100% barrel-fermented. The result is a weighty, almost oily, Pinot Gris of quiet intensity. Fine grip, fleshy texture and a resonating, crispy-citrusy finish make for a wine well worth seeking out—if only as an antidote to the everyday, stainless steel, clinical indifference this varietal so often is treated with in these parts. It towers over other Pinot Gris the way Nabokov might have scrutinized a room full of tabloid writers. In fact, as I re-tasted the wine, I wasn’t sure if I was contemplating it, or it was contemplating me.
The grapes were sourced from three different vineyards, yet the wine tastes as if made from one plot of land, such is its focus. I tasted the full line up of 10 Minutes by Tractor wines and they are as exciting as any I have tasted this year in the new releases. I am looking forward to re-tasting the others.
These and other great wines are available at Five Way Cellars in Paddington, a small shop with a tremendous collection of some of the world’s finest wines.
1333 Mornington Flinders Road
Main Ridge, Victoria 3928 Australia
Office + 61 3 5989 6455
Restaurant +61 3 5989 6080