This is a pretty good introduction to Sangiovese and while essentially a ‘negociant-produced’ wine it manages to stay true to the grape, provide the imbiber a sense of place and provenance, while finishing bone dry.

I especially like the fact that it finishes so dry. That there bespeaks of belief in the wine.

Evanescent shades of Cherry fruit doesn’t have the grip of a Villa-produced Chianti, and certainly no contender for “Super-Tuscan” is this. But then, this is a $14 wine in a land where “cheap” Chianti usually starts at around 25.00 (excluding basket cases) and single-grape (Sangiovese) Tuscans start their flight path at about $50. Along the way, La Vendetta Sangiovese manages to be sunny, perhaps even mildly reflective, without being ‘cheap and cheery’. Not a dummy, but I wouldn’t take it to meet the prospective in-laws.

Instead, take it to a casual meal at say, Gelbinsons in Bondi, where the pizza is great, but the wine glasses are teeny and the service, sporadic.  This wine will keep you warm.

Available at Kemeny’s on Bondi Road and other wine retailers.